Being a gardener  in Lubbock is a greater challenge than I imagined, but each year is getting better.
Come follow my progress as I get my hands in Texas soil.
Joy Blooms . . . with veggies, flowers, birds, butterflies, & creatures
                                                                                                                            This page last updated:   05/08/2016 08:07 AM
                                                                                                                                                                            

• Be sure to water throughout the winter -- it helps protect from freeze damage.
• Fertilize asparagus beds with high-nitrogen fertilizer, side-banded along the row.
• Include a rotation plan for locations of vegetable families to prevent nematode and disease build-ups.
• Keep misting, watering and checking seed flats every day. Be ready to move early growers to a sunny spot or under close lights.
• Manure should be added to compost, and it should be kept wet. Cover the compost to lessen the amount of water lost.
• Order seeds early so selections are available. Order bare-root plants. Create a list of planting dates for starting all seeds. Weed.
• Prune shade trees to remove dead or damaged growth.
• Prune summer flowering shrubs, including Rose of Sharon. Do not prune crape myrtles until you see the extent of winter kill.
• Prune trees and apply sealer to large cuts.
• Remove strong vertical new growth “water sprout” from apple trees.
• Seed flats should be watered and checked daily. They should be ready to move into a sunny spot or placed closed to lights.
• Start slower-growing flowers, such as begonia, lobelia, petunia, ice plant, snapdragon and verbena.
• Start vegetable seeds indoors: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, early onions, eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, kale, lettuce, spinach, broccoli rabe and arrugula. Start seeds in sterile soil; keep covered with plastic and newspaper until germination shows.
• Test old seeds for viability: Place on damp paper towels, fold and insert into unsealed plastic bag. Keep at 70 to 75 degrees until germination begins.
• Till into vegetable beds 40 to 50 pounds per 100 square feet of composited manure at a depth of 6 to 8 inches.
• Time to plant trees (fall and winter are best).
• To control aphids and scale, spray a dormant oil when the temperature is 40 to 70 degrees and will be above 30 degrees for at least 48 hours.
• Transplant established trees and bushes now while dormant. Water trees and bushes weekly.
• Use Root Stimulator and Soil Conditioner when planting.
• Water heavily right before a predicted hard freeze.

• Be sure to water.
• Begin planting seeds. Plant bare root plants. Finalize all garden planning. Complete tree planting and pruning. Begin garden clean up (including cutting back ornamental grasses.) Weed.
• Begin spring garden cleanup to deprive pillbugs, squash bugs, sow bugs, snails and slugs.
• Climbing roses should not be pruned until after spring flowering.
• Complete bare root plantings of woody landscape plants this month.
• Dig and divide summer and fall flowering perennials before they initiate spring growth.
• Do not prune trees and shrubs that bloom in early spring until after they have flowered.

• Fertilize and prune fruit and nut trees by late February or early March. Pecan trees generally require little pruning.Keep greenhouse-grown cold-tolerant plants outside in full sun, but protected from wind to build cold tolerance.
• Plant bare-root roses. Cut tops back to 6 to 8 inches; mulch and cover canes with soil to protect from frost
• Plant English peas and snap peas early in the month.
• Plant fruit and ornamental trees, shrubs, windbreak trees, cedars and pine.
• Prune dormant trees before sap flow starts. Finish pruning grapes before sap flows.
• Prune established hybrid tea and floribunda roses late in month through mid-March.
• Prune summer flowering trees, shrubs and evergreen trees.
• Set new asparagus and rhubarb beds from now through mid-March.
• Spray existing weeds with Round-Up or Finale (in Bermuda Grass.)
• Start pre-emergent program to keep weed seed from germinating. Amaze granules will take care of broadleaf and grassy type weeds.
• Test soil for spring planting prep.
• Use dormant oil on fruit trees and other scale-prone plants to control insects.

• Add soil amendments to garden areas and flowerbeds.
• After several nights of just above freezing, transplant cold-tolerant flowers: petunias, pansies, snapdragons and bachelor buttons.
• Apply 4 inches of organic mulch to perennials.
• Apply summer oil to trees and shrubs that have scale, aphids, thrips or whiteflies.
• Begin planting gladiolus bulbs at two-week intervals to extend the flowering season.
• Check for Borer damage.
• Clean iris beds. Active growth in bearded irises signals a good time to apply nitrogen fertilizer.
• Complete pruning of evergreen and summer flowering trees and shrubs early in the month.
• Feed trees and shrubs (if not done in February).
• Finish garden clean up. Begin dividing, transplanting and planting appropriate perennials. Transplant seedlings and continue planting seeds according to schedule. Plant container grown shrubs. Weed.
• If needed, spray Dormant Oil.
• Plant Fescue seed late in the month.
• Plant gladiolus corms when a warming trend is forecast.
• Plant onion sets, garlic, potatoes, rhubarb and asparagus.
• Prepare beds for planting. Sow seed for annuals.
• Prune established roses; remove old, dead or diseased canes back to the crown.
• Prune spring flowering shrubs only after flowering as blooms grow from buds on last year’s branches.
• Remove weeds while small and easily removable. They steal water, light and nutrients from vegetables.
• Shop for best selection of spring bulbs. (Elephant Ears and Caladiums go fast!)
• Watch for late freezes.
• Work away soil mounds placed around newly planted rose bushes as the new growth appears.

• Apply a light application of nitrogen-type fertilizer to established annuals and perennials.
• Apply grub control late in the month.
• Bedding plants should be avaiable at nurseries month.
• Check plants for aphids, mites, thrips and other insects.
• Check soil temperature for seeding Bermuda (must be 68 degrees).
• Complete rose pruning.
• Continue dividing (including ornamental grasses), transplanting and planting perennials. Begin planting hardy annuals. Begin pruning spring blooming shrubs after they bloom. Begin mowing when needed (not on a schedule) after the grass begins to grow. Feed with organic fertilizer after at least two mowings.
• Feed spring bulbs after blooming.
• Plant annuals when the ground warms: alyssum, marigold, zinnia, salvia, petunia, balsam, cosmos, periwinkle, Nicotiana, morning glory, cockscomb, coleus, Impatiens and begonia.
• Plant or divide chrysanthemums. Cut back dead stalks of mums to encourage new growth.
• Protect plants from late frost.
• Remember! Arbor Day is the last Friday in April.
• Remove old canes from blackberries that had fruit this season and tip back new canes.
• Remove weeds while small and easily removable. They steal water, light and nutrients from vegetables.
• Sod will be available this month.
• Spray Systemic for Pine Tip Moths.
• Start dahlia tubers when frost danger is past.
• Thin peach trees after blooming to one fruit every 6 inches; plum, three to every 4 inches; and apple, one to every cluster.
• Wait to plant caladiums and elephant ears until the ground temperature is 60 degrees.
• Weed.  Weed.  And weed some more.

• Add a side dressing of nitrogen fertilizer to vegetables.
• Apply first pecan spray containing insecticide & fungicide.
• Begin setting out warm weather annuals (watch for late freezes). Finish planting perennials. Begin the necessary work to make your gardens tour-worthy. Weed.
• Check your evergreens and garden for spider mites.
• Check your garden for spider mites.
• Cut off old blossoms on spring flowering annuals to encourage new blooms.
• Discard standing water to prevent mosquito infestation.
• Fertilize annual blooming plants with a balanced fertilizer, and move or transplant house plants outdoors.
• Fertilize spring bedding plants.
• Pinch back chrysanthemums to encourage more branching for a full plant. Make cuttings of your favorite chrysanthemums and root in mixture of sand and peat moss. Cover cutting box with plastic and place in a shaded area for five to six days to prevent wilting.
• Pinch back terminal growth on newly planted annuals and perennials. This will result in more compact and balanced plants with more flowers.
• Plant bedding plants: periwinkles, portulaca, zinnias, marigolds, coleus and cockscomb.
• Plant okra, southern peas, sweet potatoes, sweet corn and beans when soil temperatures stay 65 to 70 degrees or higher at a depth of four to six inches.
• Plant pinto beans for fall harvest.
• Plant transplants of tomato, pepper and eggplant.
• Prune climbing roses as they finish blooming.
• Remove the bottom leaves from each shoot of your grapevines.
• Remove weeds while small and easily removable. They steal water, light and nutrients from vegetables.
• Spray any existing weeds.
• Spray pecan trees.
• Spray for Bag Worms.
• Spray roses with fungicides to control black spots and powdery mildew.
• Use Systemic Fungicides on roses, vines, shrubs and grasses.
• Watch for spider mites in the garden. High pressure water sprays will often reduce mite populations, or an approved miticide can be used.
• Watch tomatoes for blossom-end rot; remove affected fruits. Maintain uniform soil moisture by mulching for prevention.

• Bitter cucumbers and eggplants occur when plants are under stress. Increase water and fertilizer. Discard old fruit.
• Harvest snap beans before seed starts to enlarge in pod. Always use mulch around and in your garden.
• Keep woody plants well watered.
• Maintain uniform soil moisture to control blossom-end rot in tomatoes.
• Place bulb, seed or plant order for fall planting.
• Plant begonias in shady bed areas or in hanging baskets.
• Plant lettuces and other greens for summer salads in garden areas exposed to full sun in the morning and afternoon shade.
• Prune away any dead wood from crape myrtles so new stems have room to grow good form and shape.
• Prune climbing roses lightly as they finish blooming.
• Remove seed structures and cut back annuals, perennials and roses to promote rebloom.
• Remove weeds while small and easily removable. They steal water, light and nutrients from vegetables.
• Side-dress established vegetables with nitrogen fertilizer. Organic alternatives include fish emulsion, seaweed extracts or compost tea.
• Start pansy seeds for transplanting in September.
• Start your first seeds for fall tomatoes, eggplant, okra and peppers.
• Suffocate mites with summer oils.
• Take notes reflecting changes to the spring gardens that you want to make next year. Begin to acclimate and bring houseplants outside for summer vacation. Conduct a tour of your gardens for friends and acquaintances. Weed.
• This is the big tomato harvest month for most Texans.
• Watch for leaf-footed bugs on tomatoes.
• Watch for weeds. They steal water, light and nutrients from flowers.
• Add Bloom Start to Crepe Myrtles to promote longer bloom time.
• Second round of Pre-Emergent.
• Sparkman's Special Blend.
• Spray an existing weeds.
• Top dress beds to help keep weeds down and retain moisture as it gets hotter.

• Adequate moisture and an application of nitrogen fertilizer for roses will improve the quality and quantity of flowers for September and October.
• Apply last pecan spray — insecticide and fungicide.
• Bulbs with greenery need watering. Do not water dormant bulbs.
• Continue proper maintenance practices. Continue proper watering practices. Continue proper mowing practices.
• Divide spring and early summer perennials — including daffodils, daylilies and irises — and replant the best clumps. Discard the diseased or damaged material and share any surplus with friends, family, school or community garden.
• DO NOT apply high Nitrogen fertilizer to Fescue -- it will burn in the heat.
• Examine plants closely for disease symptoms. Apply fungicide to tomatoes, melons, cucumbers and squash if a rainy spell sets in.
• Feed roses throughout the summer.
• For fall tomatoes, use fast-maturing, heat-setting tomato varieties.
• Give extra care and watering to trees and shrubs while weather is hot.
• Mulch to retain moisture levels and to reduce soil temperature.
• Pecans need supplemental irrigation to assure optimum kernel development. Water deeply.
• Plant summer annuals for bursts of color.
• Plant sweet corn early in July for September/October harvest. Good choices include Honey ‘N Pearl, Crisp ‘N Sweet, Bodacious or Pristine.
• Sow seeds of carrots, beets, green onions, lettuce, rutabagas and summer squash for fall-winter crops.
• Start seed flats of broccoli, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage and other cool season transplants.
• Stop pinching mums, blackberry canes and poinsettias after mid-July.
• This is a good month to divide and reset irises and day lilies.
• Treat for grub worms two weeks after beetles emerge.
• Use Bloom Set on Tomatoes to prevent shedding due to heat.
• Weeding is a continuous task.

• Apply last pecan spray — insecticide and fungicide.
• Apply your second grubworm treatment.
• Caladiums require plenty of water at this time of year.
• Continue feeding tomatoes and other established veggies.
• Destroy summer squash that is heavily infested with squash bugs or powdery mildew and replant.
• If gladiolus foliage has started to die down, you can start digging and drying corms for winter storage.
• Mulch at least 4 feet out from tomato plants to keep soil from overheating, conserve moisture and provide resting place for fruit.
• Mulch to retain moisture levels and to reduce soil temperature.
• Plan for fall planting and changes.  Continue proper maintenance practices. Continue proper watering practices. Continue proper mowing practices (you don’t catch your grass do you and have long since raised the height that you mow haven’t you?) Weed.
• Plant Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, and Chinese Cabbage. Make second planting of squash (summer and winter).
• Plant quickly growing annuals for fall color — ageratum, periwinkle, portulaca, zinnia, marigold, cosmos or coleus.
• Sometimes forceful spraying with water on leaves will wash away aphids and mites. Scare away beneficials (ladybugs, praying mantis, lacewings, etc.) by thumping or shaking stems. This practice may also be used on trees where honeydew is a problem.
• Sow seeds for English peas; Turnips; Mustard Greens; and Beets.
• Watch for insects on trees and shrubs.
• Watch for yellowing of turf grasses caused by a lack of iron.

• Apply Third round of Pre-Emergent.
• Chrysanthemums are in a critical stage and need plenty of moisture for the development of large buds and flowers. Do not allow to suffer drought stress. Stake and tie leggy varieties.
• Clean out beds and get ready for Pansies, etc.
• Complete digging, drying and storing gladiolus corms.
• Continue a disease spray schedule on roses as black spot mildew can be extremely damaging in September. An application of fungicide every seven to 14 days gives excellent control.
• Cut back or pull up faded or dying plants. This material works well in your compost bin if not diseased.
• Day lilies like loose, well-drained soil and are drought-tolerant, but they will enjoy regular irrigation as long as the soil is not soggy.
• Harvest interesting plant material to dry for use in wreaths and indoor arrangements.
• Plant Fescue seed late September through mid November.
• Plant garlic cloves, pointed ends up.
• Plant leek and chive seeds for early spring harvest.
• Plant peonies anytime this month through mid-
• Prepare beds for spring flowering bulbs as soon as possible. Cultivate and add generous amounts of organic matter (6 to 9 inches), water and allow to settle before planting bulbs. Bulbs will rot without proper drainage.
• Prune out dead/diseased wood from shrubs. Do major pruning in midwinter. Pruning now may cause tender growth prior to frost.
• Rejuvenate heat-stressed geraniums and begonias by lightly pruning, fertilizing and watering.
• Sow seeds of frost-tolerant veggies: Radishes, spinach, Chinese cabbage, leaf lettuces, chard, mustard and turnip greens.
• Spray carefully blooms and upper foliage of chrysanthemums to prevent injury of 12-spotted cucumber beetle.
• Stop deadheading crape myrtles and allow seed pods to form and be ready for dormancy.
• Take notes reflecting changes to the summer gardens that you want to make next year. Begin fall planting of perennials and shrubs. Weed.
• Watch for mites on underside of leaves on fall tomatoes, bean crops and cucumbers.
• Watch for red spider mites on mums. A nice blast of water will knock these pests off leaves.

• Apply a copper spray to peach trees at the time of leaf drop to prevent leafspot, bacterial canker and peach leaf curl infection next year.
• Begin preparing houseplants for their move to winter quarters. Finish fall planting. Feed the lawn with organic fertilizer (you haven’t been fertilizing with “fast food” all summer have you?) Weed.
• Chrysanthemums are in a critical stage and need plenty of moisture for the development of large buds and flowers. Do not allow to suffer drought stress. Stake and tie leggy varieties.
• Complete digging, drying and storing gladiolus corms.
• Continue a disease spray schedule on roses as black spot mildew can be extremely damaging in September. An application of fungicide every seven to 14 days gives excellent control.
• Cut back or pull up faded or dying plants. This material works well in your compost bin if not diseased.
• For blooming Christmas cactus at Christmastime, place in complete, uninterrupted darkness for at least 13 hours each night until you begin to see well-developed flower buds. Give it sunlight during the day.
• For scale on broadleaf evergreens, use dormant oil. Follow label directions for optimum temperature for application.
• Harvest all the basil you want before cold temperatures arrive. If unprotected, leaves turn black.
• Harvest mature green tomatoes before the first freeze. Harvest ornamental corn, mature pumpkins and winter squash.
• Move foliage plants indoors, repot and check for insects and diseases.
• Now is a good time to plant most herbs. Try the perennial Sweet Bay (laurus nobilis) in stew, sauces, fish and custards. Try perennial thyme (thymus spp) leaves in dressings, gravies and vegetables. Pineapple Sage (salvia elgans) dried leaves make great potpourri.
• Now is a good time to purchase bulbs. They may be planted at any time with the exception of tulips and hyacinths. Place these bulbs in the lower part of refrigerator until mid- or late December.
• October is a good time to reduce the insect and disease potential in next year’s garden. Cleanup is important. Remove all annuals once their cycle is complete. Begin composting fallen leaves. Plant container-grown landscape shrubs.
• Order and/or buy spring bulbs, i.e. tulips, dafodills, etc.
• Plant pansies as night temperatures begin to cool. Well-drained soil and at least half a day of sun are generally advised.
• Plant seeds of larkspur and poppies. Mark their location.
• Plant trees - be sure to use Root Stimulator and soil amendments.
• Prepare tulip beds to receive bulbs you are chilling, if you have not done so already.
• Rejuvenate heat-stressed geraniums and begonias by lightly pruning, fertilizing and watering.
• Sow cornflower, larkspur, snapdragon, bluebonnet and Drummond Phlox. They will be ready to grow and flower next spring.
• Sow seeds of radish for winter salads. Root crops store well in the garden soil all winter if soil is lightly mulched.
• Spray carefully blooms and upper foliage of chrysanthemums to prevent injury of 12-spotted cucumber beetle.
• The fertilization of the plants should be reduced from late October to mid-March.
• Water roses heavily twice a month if there is little or no rain. Continue to spray with fungicides or dust with sulphur if there are signs of mildew and black spots. Add fresh mulch for added winter protection.

• Apply Winterizer and fertilizer to lawn.
• Evergreens, deciduous trees and shrubs benefit from the removal of dead wood.
• For rose planting in January and December, prepare beds and individual holes. Composted manure, pine bark and similar soils should be mixed with existing soil.
• Irrigation should be provided for lawns during the dry periods in order to prevent excessive winter damage.
• Mulch lightly around crowns of root crops after frost to insulate crowns against cold.
• Pick tomatoes before frost and store inside. Tomatoes store best in layers separated by newspaper, where temperature is about 50 degrees; bring fruit into kitchen at 65 to 70 degrees to accelerate ripening.
• Plant herbs in pots in sunniest window; basil, cilantro, watercress, curly cress, chives and parsley.
• Plant spring blooming bulbs. Dig summer flowering bulbs that will not survive the winter. Pot up tropical plants that you will overwinter to save money. Weed.
• Plant trees.
• Prune only dead wood from flowering shrubs now.
• Remove debris from flower beds and gardens to control diseases and insects.
• Select fruit, nuts, vegetables and flowers for use in harvest arrangements.
• Shield newly planted trees and shrubs from winter wind, apply mulch and irrigate them every week in the winter.
• Sow  a winter cover crop for soil health. Rye, for example, captures rainfall and snow, improves soil structure, adds organic matter and traps root nematodes.
• There is time to plant pansies, calendulas, flowering kale and larkspur. It is important to select short, stocky plants.
• To hasten the decomposition, turn over the contents of compost bins. The contents should be kept moist, but not soggy.

• A living Christmas tree, such as a juniper or pine, should be considered during the holidays. It can be planted later in the landscape or used as a potted specimen.
• Add fourth round of Pre-Emergent.
• Apply complete cover of mulch to root crops to prevent freezing injury of crowns of carrots, beets, parsnips, turnips, rutabagas and radishes. Do not let soil dry out around crowns of root crops.
• Apply Dormant Oil. Plant trees.
• Consider using a live Christmas tree that can be planted in the landscape or used as a potted specimen. Junipers and pines are excellent for this purpose.
• Continue setting out hardy bedding plants, such as pansies, violas, stock, snapdragons and dianthus.
• Continue watering through winter months.
• Do not rush to prune woody plants. Late December through February is usually the best time to prune.
• For color in house during the winter, place small potted plants in window sills.
• If flowering spring bulbs have not been planted already, now is the time to do so.
• If gathering needle evergreens and hollies for wreaths and table decorations, prune selectively and carefully to preserve appearance of shrubs.
• Now is the time to order and select roses needed for January or February delivery.
• Plant trees. Take notes reflecting changes to fall gardens that you want to make next year.
• Prune trees now through March.
• Use fabric to cover cool season greens from most hard freezes.
• Use good pruning practices as you select greenery for decorations.
• Water trees, shrubs and lawns - should be continued through the winter months.
• Weed.  Weed.  Weed.  You'll be glad you did.